Tag: sewing: pants

So I’ve been wanting to make jeans (and more items for my lower half, in general) for a while now, and I thought Jalie’s pull-on Éléonore jeans would be a good starting point. I’ve had great results with Jalie patterns when it comes to dancewear, but this marks the first time I’ve tried any of their patterns that don’t require spandex.

I came across the denim, to my surprise, in the local fabric shop – it stocks 90% quilting cotton, 8% upholstery fabric, and 2% solid-coloured cotton-lycra. I did not expect to find stretch denim, but there was one small bolt on top of a bunch of long rolls of thick curtain fabric. I took it as a sign that it was time to get the jeans train moving along.

I made a couple of adjustments right off the printer. The jeans are straight below the knee and shaped above it, so I took two inches off the thigh-to-knee length to account for my height. I also shortened the rise by two inches – it works great while I’m standing, but the squat test sees the back slide down just a little lower than I’d prefer. Next time the center back rise will only have an inch removed, not two.

The fit is pretty good for a first pair. I’m not aiming for perfection (anyone who sees my topstitching on these jeans won’t doubt that at all) – cute and wearable is enough for me. There’s some wrinkling around my knees because the straight cut doesn’t leave quite enough room for my curvy calves, but I can fix that if I want to. Either way the fit is much better than I get in RTW.

I didn’t think I had any stretch wovens in my stash, but a quick toss of the bins unearthed a few yards of light blue stretch corduroy. So that’ll be the second pair, I think.

Catch-All Finished! Handmade Sewing

Yes, pants. I’ve never sewn proper pants before, just PJ bottoms and a couple of ill-fated pairs of shorts in 8th grade about a hundred years ago. I’m terrible for not doing muslins, but pants fitting seems like a complicated thing so I decided to do it this time. Pattern is Muna and Broad’s Sculthorpe pants, and I used a medium-weight cotton twill that I’m fairly certain I inherited from someone.

The pattern was surprisingly uncomplicated, and overall I feel like the finished pants aren’t too bad for a first go. The thigh/calf fit is great, the length is great after I chopped off a couple of inches, and the pockets. Oh, the pockets. I love them. The elastic waist is comfortable, if a bit too big. I’ll tighten the elastic next time. The back rise is spot-on, too.

Fit adjustments for next time: a different size, to start. My shirt hides it in the photo but they’re too big around the hips and waist. I made a size 1 as per my hip measurement, so next time I think I’ll start with one size down and then blend back to a 1 for the legs. As far as the front rise goes, well. I have a tilted waist. It’s a couple of inches lower in the front than in the back, and any pants I try to wear higher than that waistline just slide down. I adjust the waist curve in my muslin and will do the same next time.

I really expected to have all kinds of micro-fit problems with these, and I… don’t? There are a few things I need to change, but these are definitely nicely drafted to fit plus-size bodies. The crotch curve alone is so much better-fitting than anything I’ve ever gotten in RTW. I’m kinda excited to see what the next pair looks and feels like; I’m leaning toward a light non-stretch denim for some reason.

But for now, back to a nebula-print Webster. It’s all cut, and waiting to be sewn.

Catch-All Finished! Handmade Sewing